material and plans for a log and yoke ?

[Arnell Castillo]

so I've been trying to make a lot of equipment instead of spending a bunch of money on shipping and all . was wondering what material I would need for a 12 inch log and yoke ? also if anyone has the plans for both that would be appreciated . thanks in advance .

[Ryan Wells]

I ordered a log from Brute Strength and on from Pitbull. I've had everything else fabricated. You may find that by the time you gather the materials, cut the pieces, drill the holes, pay a welder, and slap a coat of paint on it--not to mention the gas and personal time running around to do this--you may want to have someone like Alan (Pitbull) just ship it to your door (at least for the larger more complicated items).

Looking back, it took a lot of energy to square everything away and after working out the math, it wasn't that big of a savings.

[JimmyHerbst]

I would say for something like a log you're better off just ordering one. certain tools like axle bars or thick handed db's or even making the duck walk apparatus can basically be pieced together in the pipe aisle at home depot. but for something that has to be durable and last a while, i would just splurge and get the real deal.

(excuse me for the hijack but...)
is brute strength still around? i ordered a 3" thick bar from them a few years ago and it was great until i left it outside and it got used as a pry bar. would like to get a new one..

[Ryan Wells]

(excuse me for the hijack but...)
is brute strength still around? i ordered a 3" thick bar from them a few years ago and it was great until i left it outside and it got used as a pry bar. would like to get a new one..
I think BS is long gone. At least as far as I know.

[Eric Johnson]

Yoke instructions curtosy of Mike Landrich:
Materials
2 5' sections of 2" square tubing (3/16 wall thickness), cut sqaure on the ends. (uprights)
4 2' sections of 2" square tubing, mitered at 45 degrees (braces)
6 12" pieces of 1 1/2" ID schedule 40 pipe (loading pins)
2 4' sections of 3" (or larger) channel iron (feet)
2 6" pieces of 2 1/2" square tubing (slides over the uprights to adjust height)
1 piece of schedule 40 (or heavier if you can get it, even solid) pipe for the crossbar, however long you prefer (I went 54" and it seems good to me)


In the uprights, drill holes exactly in the center of the tube (I drilled 15/32 holes for 7/16" Lynch pins) that face FRONT AND BACK every couple of inches from the top down 10 inches or so (so your smaller buddies can use it), another at approx 36" (for zercher/front carries to simulate Conan's Wheel) and one just above where the braces hit the uprights for 18" DLs (at least 1 1/2" above where the weld bead will be, the absolute minimum spacing is 1" with 1/2" to allow for mistakes).

In the 2 1/2" slides, drill 3 15/32" holes exactly in the center, spaced at 1",3" (center) and 5". These again will face FRONT AND BACK and must match the holes in the uprights.

Weld the tubing and channel together as seen in the photo (it is as simple as it looks). Weld the loading pins to the braces, just high enough so 45lb plates clear the channel (8 1/2" inches is sufficient), weld the loading pin to the upright with the same clearance. All that's left is to weld the crossbar to the sliders (I offset mine 1" above center so I adjust the DL and front carry 2" by turning the crossbar over). Once that's done, slide the crossbar down onto the uprights, insert 2 lynch pins (or bolts) and you have a yoke.

[Arnell Castillo]

Yoke instructions curtosy of Mike Landrich:
Materials
2 5' sections of 2" square tubing (3/16 wall thickness), cut sqaure on the ends. (uprights)
4 2' sections of 2" square tubing, mitered at 45 degrees (braces)
6 12" pieces of 1 1/2" ID schedule 40 pipe (loading pins)
2 4' sections of 3" (or larger) channel iron (feet)
2 6" pieces of 2 1/2" square tubing (slides over the uprights to adjust height)
1 piece of schedule 40 (or heavier if you can get it, even solid) pipe for the crossbar, however long you prefer (I went 54" and it seems good to me)


In the uprights, drill holes exactly in the center of the tube (I drilled 15/32 holes for 7/16" Lynch pins) that face FRONT AND BACK every couple of inches from the top down 10 inches or so (so your smaller buddies can use it), another at approx 36" (for zercher/front carries to simulate Conan's Wheel) and one just above where the braces hit the uprights for 18" DLs (at least 1 1/2" above where the weld bead will be, the absolute minimum spacing is 1" with 1/2" to allow for mistakes).

In the 2 1/2" slides, drill 3 15/32" holes exactly in the center, spaced at 1",3" (center) and 5". These again will face FRONT AND BACK and must match the holes in the uprights.

Weld the tubing and channel together as seen in the photo (it is as simple as it looks). Weld the loading pins to the braces, just high enough so 45lb plates clear the channel (8 1/2" inches is sufficient), weld the loading pin to the upright with the same clearance. All that's left is to weld the crossbar to the sliders (I offset mine 1" above center so I adjust the DL and front carry 2" by turning the crossbar over). Once that's done, slide the crossbar down onto the uprights, insert 2 lynch pins (or bolts) and you have a yoke.

THANKS ....

[Matthew White]

On top of the Mike Landrich Yoke, I'd look into making the guides on the cross bar a bit longer so you could weld a diagonal piece between the cross bar and the cross bar guide, this way the cross bar would be less prone to flex under heavy weights and be much more sturdy. Just my two cents as a greasy ol engineer. ;) Other than that, that yoke looks totally GANGSTA!!!

On top of that, I dunno, to me it sounds like there would be alot of that man pride in making your own log, cause that's a pretty cool impliment to make, assuming its out of wood. You could get all creative with it and make it from different woods and carve some etchings in it of viking ships and stuff like that. I personally think its more of the "get off your butt and do it" than the money involved in a log. Depending on what wood you use, I'm sure if you wanted a log made of ebony that would be pretty expensive.

[Mike Landrich]

On top of the Mike Landrich Yoke, I'd look into making the guides on the cross bar a bit longer so you could weld a diagonal piece between the cross bar and the cross bar guide, this way the cross bar would be less prone to flex under heavy weights and be much more sturdy. Just my two cents as a greasy ol engineer. ;) Other than that, that yoke looks totally GANGSTA!!!.

I replaced the crossbar when I let Glenn Kaifas and Kevin Nowack use that yoke while they were training for St Pats (made it 6 inches shorter and thicker) and did just that with the guides and braces. It worked great. I also put set screws (actually bolts) on the outside of the guides to tighten everything up and take out any slack, once it was adjusted properly. Both changes made the yoke much better. I will use what I learned making that one and make another. Wait until you see that one. It'll be based on this. A yoke can be so much more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MTWsNZzbZg



As for making a steel log, unless you can get scrap large pipe, it's cost prohibitive to make one. You can buy one cheaper.